Robert Puertas – Good for Your Soul Travel

I had been to Scotland with my family in summer of 2015, and came back raving to my friends about the country’s beautiful sites, fascinating history, warm hospitality, excellent food, and of course the magic of tasting Single Malt right at the distillery. I belong to a group that does regular whisky tastings, and so I had a very receptive audience when I told them all we needed to plan a trip to go Scotch tasting in the Speyside region, the home of Scotland’s most famous distilleries. Glenlivet, Glenfiddich, and Macallan are some of the biggest names in Whisky, and all of them are located along the river Spey in the northeast of Scotland. Naturally, we wouldn’t be touring any of those massive commercial places. We were going to focus on the smaller distilleries, many of which don’t even have distribution in the US. And so early one Monday morning at the end of September, nine friends from Orange County, California, strode out from Edinburgh Airport under a bright blue sky. There was a pleasant nip to the air, and a sense of adventure lending a bounce to our steps.

Our motley crew visiting Ballindalloch Distillery, Scotland. World’s greatest tour guide, Brian Robinson is the one wearing a tie.

We met our new best friend Barry in the loading zone. Barry would be our driver and guide for the next week, as he and his bus would carry us back and forth across the northeast from Edinburgh to Inverness and back again. We would later find out something truly disturbing about Barry; he doesn’t actually like Scotch. Now perhaps in retrospect, this is a good thing, no temptation on his part to drink and drive. Other than that, Barry was a terrific driver and an amiable host, quickly becoming part of our group. His mini-bus, designed to seat 20, was perfect for our group of 9 guys. It was comfortable and had plenty of room for our luggage as well as our daily shopping trips. The first of which was only 90 minutes north of Edinburgh in Pitlochry. Our first stop was Blair-Athol Distillery, where we had a lovely private tour and tasting. Blair-Athol, is a beautiful old distillery (established in 1798) and they do an informative tour with a nice tasting at the end. Like many distilleries, a large percentage of their production goes to make blended whisky, in their case Bell’s. But they also do a small run of single malt, which they offer as a 12-year-old. We tasted that, alongside their cask strength single malt and a rare bottle from their sister distillery, Caol Ila. After the tasting, we ventured into their shop to purchase what would be the first of many souvenir bottles.

Blair-Athol Distillery, Pitlochry, Scotland.

By now we were ready for lunch, so we loaded back onto the bus and headed up to the Blair Atholl Watermill, an old grain mill, with a tearoom attached. They still process their own grain here, using the ancient waterwheel to drive the mill. They also have a nice little café and tearoom where they sell the baked goods they create from their own grain. They even offer bread-baking classes, so I think I might need to come back and spend a couple of days. Truthfully, it would be worth it for the shortbread cookies alone, but their malted barley bread is pretty delicious. Thus fortified, we continued north for the Speyside village of Aberlour and Dowan’s Hotel where we would spend the next four nights.

Dowan’s Hotel, Aberlour, Scotland.

Dowan’s is a lovely old hotel, totally restored and modernized by someone with a real sense of style. It’s a family affair, and the Murrays all make you feel like you’re part of the family. The rooms are large and very comfortable as are the en-suite bathrooms. The public spaces are lovingly put together and very comfortable. The grounds are beautifully kept and presented. And the food is outstanding. Hot breakfasts are prepared to order each morning, in addition to a small side table with juices, fruit, muesli and pastries. Dinner in the two restaurants is excellent. We dined in each during our stay, in the more casual Restaurant 57 on our first night, which also serves as the breakfast room. And on our last night, we enjoyed a wonderful private four-course meal in Spe, the hotel’s Scotch library.

The old Aberlour railway station, Charlestown of Aberlour, Scotland.

Our second day in Scotland dawned bright and too early. But after a terrific breakfast of kippers and eggs, I was ready to taste more Scotch. Strangely, I was the only one to order kippers. Everyone else had eggs benedict or French toast. Anyway, it was time to load up for the short drive to Ballindalloch. This would be interesting, as Ballindalloch is Scotland’s newest distillery. So new, that they technically don’t have any Scotch yet. In order to sell whisky and call it Scotch, there are some rules you need to follow, and one of those rules is that your whisky must have been stored in oak casks for at least 3 years. But Ballindalloch hasn’t been distilling spirits that long. So they have a warehouse full of oak casks that are in turn full of whisky. They just don’t have any SCOTCH yet! The facility is beautiful, built inside an old stone farmhouse and barn, resurrected for the purpose of housing the new distillery, and restored to a beautiful state. The equipment is gleams and the whole facility is really lovely. But as the tour came to a finish and we listened to Brian Robinson finish his passionate tale of life at Scotland’s youngest distillery, we heard the fateful words, it would be a decade before we would be tasting any Ballindalloch single malt. He then solemnly led us into a lovely tasting room, sat us at a large oaken table, bereft of glasses, and let that news sink in.

Ballindalloch Distillery, Scotland.

Cruel man that he is, he told us about how he had this same conversation with Guy Macperson-Grant, Lord Ballindalloch, the man behind this mad scheme. Fortunately for all of us, he had the perfect solution sitting in his cellar back at the castle, the family’s own casks of Cragganmore. What? Apparently the family had a long-standing arrangement of buying a cask of single malt from the Cragganmore Distillery each year. This had been going on for decades, since a previous Lord Ballindalloch sold the Cragganmore Distillery the land it sits on. More importantly, long enough that our group was lucky enough to taste the 1986, 1985 and 1984 expressions. Those of you counting on fingers & toes are correct, we were lucky enough to taste 30, 31 and 32-year-old single-cask Cragganmores. The 1984 sherry cask was almost certainly the best scotch I’ve ever tasted. We were sad to leave, but it was time for lunch, and we were due at the castle. We enjoyed a nice lunch in the tearoom, and then strolled the lovely grounds and had a quick look into the castle itself to see the beautifully presented rooms.

Ballindalloch Castle, Scotland.

Next up was Aberlour, maker of one of my favorite single malts, their 16-year-old Sherry cask. You can only buy this expression at the distillery, so I was planning on stocking up. Aberlour offers a nice tour, but a fantastic tasting. You get to sample all of their single malts, including the 16-year-old single cask bottling and even the new spirit, the clear, freshly distilled malt, before it has spent time in bourbon casks or sherry butts. The tasting room is a cozy space with wood paneled walls and an enormous table lined with comfortable chairs. The place invites you to sit back and relax. They also provide your designated driver with a little set of plastic bottles to carry away their samples in. After the tasting, we headed up to Aberlour’s little shop, where we added a few more souvenirs to our growing collection.

Aberlour Distillery, Scotland.

That afternoon we explored the little town of Aberlour, wandering through the old war memorial and the church, window-shopping in the village, and strolling down to the banks of the Spey. It’s a very relaxing place. Close to the river, and just steps from the old railway station (closed to rail traffic since 1971), is The Mash Tun, one of the most celebrated pubs in Speyside. We enjoyed a nice simple meal in this charming old place and then slowly made our way back up the hill to our hotel.

The Mash Tun, Aberlour, Scotland.

The next day had us winding alongside the Spey up north to the sea. Benromach Distillery is a mile and a half from the North Sea, on the road between Elgin and Inverness. Benromach is one of the lucky old distilleries to have been resurrected after years of lying dormant. It is a fascinating place with a long and strange history. Today, they are one of the only Speyside distilleries to add a small amount of peat smoke to their malted barley, and that subtle note of smokiness gives Benromach a unique character. After our tour and tasting we once again visited the gift shop. We then piled back into the van to head to Elgin. Elgin Cathedral was begun in 1224 and was the seat of power for the Bishops of Moray until losing its roof in 1560, shortly after the Protestant Reformation. It has been a tourist attraction for 200 years, and today it is till clear why. The ruins are awe-inspiring. You can stand in the open-air nave and imagine what it must have been like when it was still in use; only now the floor is a perfect green lawn. The statues and grave markers make for dramatic photo opportunities, and the museum in the still intact cathedral towers houses an excellent exhibition of carved stones.

Elgin Cathedral, Scotland.

We then headed to Glenfiddich, not for a tour and tasting, but to have lunch at their excellent restaurant, The Malt Barn. Glenfiddich is a beautiful facility, as befits a distillery that sells so many bottles worldwide, it is a rich and lovely place. But we weren’t there for a tour or to taste their Scotch. Wherever you live, you can get it at home, probably in your local grocery store, and so our precious time was better spent elsewhere. However, their restaurant has a fine reputation, and the grounds are worth a wander. I had an excellent Cullen Skink, a stew made with smoked haddock and potato. Several people however, made the mistake of getting the quiche with salad. Now one thing worth knowing about Scottish cuisine, if it comes on the plate with a salad, its going to be cold. That’s right, cold quiche. Because salad. Don’t do it. But the soup and brown bread were awesome. As was the gift shop.

Barry hamming it up at Glenfiddich.

Next up was a bit of a personal quest for one of our group. We were off to find Rait Castle, the ancestral seat of our friend Emmett Raitt. The castle is now a ruin, roofless and totally grown over with vines; it’s lawn in need of a trim. But it’s a sweet little ruin, and any of us would be proud to call it ours. We had a grand time wandering around the stone walls, imagining it how it must have been and staring off towards the sea just a few miles distant. The sun took that opportunity to peak out between the clouds and we were gifted with a spectacular rainbow. Emmett was thrilled and we were all grateful for having been there with him. On our way back to Dowan’s, we had a brief stop to see the Sueno’s Stone, the tallest and most complex early medieval sculpture in Scotland. Standing 23 foot high, this Pictish cross is covered with the story of a battle on one side and what is thought to be a royal inauguration on the other. Coincidentally, the battle is though to represent the victory of Cinead mac Alpin, king of the Picts and according to myth, the first king of the scots. Perhaps he was a distant relative of Paul Macalpine, another member of our little group? We then stopped for dinner, at Barry’s suggestion, at a Toot’s Café Bar and Bistro. It is quiet little pub in Rothes, and the casual restaurant for the newly renovated Station Hotel. It is a comfortable place to grab a pint and relax, and they make a truly excellent burger. I’m told the fish and chips were quite good too.

Rait Castle, Nairn, Scotland.

Thursday morning had us headed to Strathisla Distillery in a heavy drizzle. I knew nothing of Strathisla going in, except that Mike at The Whisky Shop Dufftown recommended it, and that we couldn’t get their single malt it in the states. We could get their blended scotch, you may have even heard of it, Chivas Regal? Based on that connection, I wasn’t sure what to expect. The pictures looked nice, Mike said we should go, but Chivas is not something I have enjoyed much in the past. Well throw out what you know. The tour was excellent, thanks to our guide Anna Mitchell, Strathisla single malt is fantastic, and we got to taste some of the higher end Chivas, which is also pretty delicious. I am so glad we stopped in here.

Strathisla Distillery, Scotland.

Next up was a stop at Huntly Castle, the ancestral home of the Gordon clan, and our friend Norman Gordon. This is another awe-inspiring wreck, so typical of Scotland. A graceful old pile of stone, so full of history you can hear ghosts whisper and armor creak with each gust of wind and drop of water. Wandering around the bones of this old building in a light mist is perfection. Following it up with a stop at Dean’s Shortbread factory for a quick lunch is the icing on the cake. Dean’s has a cafeteria and tearoom, which truth be told, is not the least bit fancy, but totally acceptable. What it really has going for it, is the factory store. Grab a tin of shortbread to take home to the family, and grab a couple of bags of seconds, random broken pieces of shortbread they can’t package up, but instead sell for pennies on the pound. Perfect for nibbling on the bus, or back in the hotel bar with a nice glass of scotch or a cup of tea.

The Distillery Manager’s office, Glendronach Distillery, Scotland.

After lunch, we loaded back up and headed to Glendronach Distillery. Since this visit, Glendronach has become my favorite Scotch. We enjoyed a terrific tour -ask for Karen McWilliams if you want a laugh – and make sure you do the Premium Tasting Tour. We got to sample the Glendronach 18-year-old, the 21-year-old and an extra-special single-cask offering. We then raced to the gift shop for the chance to buy some of this amazing Scotch. They sell some fantastic older bottlings that are only available at the Distillery. They also give you the opportunity to fill your own bottle of 12-year-old from a single-cask sherry butt in the store. That was extremely cool. And delicious. I still have a little bit left. I’m nursing it until I get to go back. Glendronach is a hard act to follow, so our next stop was The Whisky Shop Dufftown. Mike, the owner has an amazing whisky shop, with the most incredible selection of single malts anywhere. We had been trying to restrain ourselves to buying things we could only buy at the distilleries. Mike even had a couple of those items on his shelves. He also had terrific recommendations for other whiskies he knew we would like based on what each of us had enjoyed so far. I shipped home quite a few bottles from there. Kid in a candy store doesn’t quite cover it.

Dowan’s Hotel, Aberlour, Scotland.

That night we had a spectacular four-course dinner at Spe, Dowan’s single-malt library and private dining room. The Murray family had taken such great care of us, and we were all sad to leave the next day. We headed back to Edinburgh with the sun shining, and made one last distillery stop in Pitlochry again, this time ad Edradour. Edradour is an odd place, and we probably should have skipped the tour here, as by then we knew the routine, and our German tour guide Hans was slightly off-putting in his borrowed kilt. The whisky however is quite nice, and Edradour has made a side business out of buying single casks from other distilleries and storing them until they are mature. You can taste a great number of these in their bar, and purchase some spectacular bottles in their shop. This alone made it worth a visit. We were back on the bus with the goal of getting back to Edinburgh with time left in the day for some sight seeing. Barry didn’t disappoint, stopping only long enough for a quick rest stop and to photograph another fantastic rainbow over the Firth of Forth and its awesome bridges.

The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, Scotland.

We were soon checking into our hotel and saying farewell to Barry. We would miss his easy companionship and his sense of humor. But we had traded the breathtaking Scottish countryside for the big city, and we would just need our feet for the next two days. The Hub is a super modern business hotel with ultra-efficient rooms. They have nothing you don’t need, not even an extra inch, but everything you do. They are perfectly designed, and I have to say, to a man, everyone loved the place. It was one block off the Royal Mile, and easy walking distance to wherever you wanted to go. That night I wanted to explore the Royal Mile, have a peak inside St. Giles and have dinner at Angels with Bagpipes. Edinburgh does not disappoint. St. Giles cathedral is stunning, the Royal Mile is vibrant and full of energy, and Angels with Bagpipes provided a terrific meal.

St. Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh, Scotland.

The next day we hit it hard, exploring Edinburgh Castle, The National Museum of Scotland, Holyrood Palace, Arthur’s Seat and The Calton Hill. Pausing just long enough to grab an excellent pulled pork sandwich from Oink on Victoria Street and a scoop of whisky ice cream from Over Langshaw’s tiny little stand in Grassmarket. We needed another day in Edinburgh. Maybe two. But we contented ourselves with a truly spectacular mean at The Kitchin, Tom Kitchin’s eponymous Michelin-Starred restaurant down in Leith, the old harbor of Edinburgh. It was one of the greatest meals of my life, ten inspired courses, all with perfect wine pairings, and all the produce, meat and seafood locally sourced. I will never forget the scallops, or the pork, or the rabbit. Even the breadsticks were outstanding. It was the perfect ending to the perfect trip. Everything about Scotland is good for my soul. I love the people, the countryside, the history, and the food, but especially, the single malt.

Slainte.

Aberlour Distillery, Scotland.

Good For Your Soul – Scotland:

Pitlochry – eat at the Blair Atholl Watermill

Must visit distilleries include: Blair-Athol and Edradour

Speyside – sleep and eat at Dowan’s Hotel,

eat at Toot’s Bistro, The Mash Tun, and The Malt Barn

and buy scotch at The Whisky Shop Dufftown

Must visit distilleries include: Aberlour, Ballindalloch, Glendronach, and Strathisla

Don’t miss seeing: Ballindalloch Castle, Elgin Cathedral, and any castle you have a personal connection to.

Edinburgh – sleep at Hub by Premier Inn – Royal Mile

eat at Over Langshaw’s Ice Cream, Oink, Angels With Bagpipes, and The Kitchin

Don’t miss seeing: Edinburgh Castle, The National Museum of Scotland, Holyrood Palace, Arthur’s Seat and The Calton Hill

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part V : Piemonte, Italy : Europe – Summer 2017

August 22, 2017November 14, 2018Robert Puertas

View from the Castello, Grinzane Cavour, Piemonte, Italy.

Itinerary:

Mon. July 31 – train to Lugano – drive to Lake Maggiore – 2 nights at Castello del Pozzo

Wed. Aug 2 – drive to Neive – 4 nights at Langhe Country House

Sun. Aug 6 – drive to Milan – 1 night at Four Seasons Hotel

Mon. Aug 7 – depart Milan-Malpensa Airport

The train ride from Lucerne to Lugano is a lovely journey down through the alps. Arriving at Lugano station, you could be forgiven for thinking you were already in Italy. The station is a notch less tidy, and the work being done feels just a bit less well organized. The short walk to the rental car office reinforces this idea. Everything feels a little more relaxed. And so we stuffed our rental Ford Galaxy min van with six people and too much luggage, and headed towards Lake Maggiore, and Piemonte. We would be staying in Piemonte, the western-most region of Italy for most of this trip, only leaving it on our next-to-last day to fly home from Milan.

View across Lake Maggiore to the Rocca di Angera from Arona, Italy.

We were headed for the little village of Oleggio Castello, just up the hill from the popular lake-side town of Arona on the south west coast of Lake Maggiore. Our home for the next two nights would be Castello dal Pozzo, a recently restored hotel and adjacent estate with a castle-like manor house, built in the 1800’s on the remains of a Roman fortification from ca. 1000. Today, the castle and its grounds are used for private events such as weddings, and the elegant hotel and fantastic restaurant provide the infrastructure for those gatherings. We dined in the restaurant our first night, and had the great pleasure of sharing the dining room with the charming scions of the Dal Pozzo family, the husband and wife who are responsible for the restoration of the estate into a resort destination. They have created a lovely place, with well beautiful guest rooms, relaxing public spaces and an elegant restaurant with equally spectacular food.

Isola Bella, Lago Maggiore, Italy.

The next day we hired a boat to tour the lake. There are three islands that form the primary tourist destinations on the lake; Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and Isola Pescatori are collectively referred to as the Isole Borromee, they were the property of the Borromeo family who started acquiring them in the 16^th century. Isola Bella has a lovely summer palace with extensive formal gardens and a small town full of shops and restaurants. Isola Pescatori, literally, the fishermen’s island is a residential community where fishermen and their families lived, until recently housing as many as 200 people. Now the primary commercial activity is tourism, with many shops and restaurants. Isola Madre the largest of the three, also has a lovely palace, now a museum, but is most famous for its excellent English style garden, which covers the island and has been maintained since 1823, complete with plants and trees from around the world and a large flock of free-ranging peacocks. Sailing around the lake and exploring the islands makes for a very relaxing day. The towns along the shore are lovely, and its especially fun to see the grand old resort hotels from the water as they were intended to be approached. Our captain also pointed out the famous Candoglia stone quarries up in the hills above the lake. This is where all the stone used to build the Duomo di Milano was quarried.

View from Isola Bella to Stresa, Lago Maggiore, Italy.

That night we decided to try a famous local restaurant, Bue D’Oro. We dined on the outdoor patio and despite having to look up a few menu items via google translator, we had a truly spectacular meal, paired perfectly with local wines. Like most restaurants outside the big city in Italy, I am always shocked at how far the dollar goes. Wonderful food and terrific local wines are both extremely affordable in rural Italy.

Ravioli al burro e rosmarino, Trattoria nelle Vigne, Diano d’Alba, Italy.

The next day we piled back into the car and made the two-hour drive to the town of Neive in the Langhe. The Langhe is the hilly area south of the river Tanaro, in the province of Cuneo in Piemonte. Google maps is your friend here, but all you really need to know is this is the home of white truffles, Barbera, Barolo, Barbaresco, Dolcetto and Nebbiolo. Those of you with a sweet tooth will appreciate it is also the home of Nutella. Piemonte is also the home of the Slow Food movement, focusing on local food and traditional cooking. Italians take this idea very seriously, and everywhere you dine in Italy, especially in rural areas, you come to realize that the fruits and vegetables that make up your meal were picked that morning, that the fresh fish was caught that day. It makes for a remarkable cuisine, and it becomes addicting. You are bound to be disappointed when you get back home and return to shopping in your local market.

Dolcetto grapes, Diano d’Alba, Italy.

No place in Italy better exemplifies the Slow Food philosophy than Eataly. It is a supermarket like none other. Full of the freshest produce, fish, meats and cheeses, baked goods and sweets you will ever see collected under one roof. The original Eataly in Turin also boasts an enormous basement wine shop and several marvelous restaurants and food stalls, as well as a kitchenware shop and huge selection of cookbooks. Did I mention the incredible gelato? The cheese department has someone making fresh mozzarella and ricotta on site, and there is another counter where you can watch fresh pasta being made by hand. Seriously, a market with a fresh mozzarella counter, a fresh pasta counter, and a fresh gelato counter with a wine shop attached. I don’t need to shop anywhere else ever again.

Formula 1 cars, Turin Automotive Museum, Italy.

Turin also boasts some cool history. The Museo Egizio boasts the largest collection of Egyptian artifacts outside of Egypt. The Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile is host to a spectacular collection of automobiles, mostly Italian, which is no bad thing. There is a focus here on Turin’s significance in the history of the automobile, for at one point in time, Turin was the center of the automotive universe. Fiat was based in Turin, as were dozens of other companies, and several important automotive design firms, like Pinninfarina, are still based here. One of the treats for me was getting up on the roof of the old Fiat factory, now a shopping mall and a modern art museum, Pinacoteca Agnelli. The roof was built as a banked test track for the factory. Every car built would be driven around the track before sent off to customers around the world. Gear heads and movie fans might remember the scene from the original Italian Job movie with Michael Caine, where they drive the old Mini Coopers across the roof of this building. Today it’s just a curiosity that requires admission to the art museum to see. But fortunately, the museum has a nice little collection of paintings by Matisse, Picasso, Modigliani, Renoir, Manet, and Canaletto, among others. Combine these attractions with the shopping mall downstairs and Eataly right across the street, and you’ve got a nice half-day filled. We drove into Turin for the day from Neive, but it probably deserves a couple of days to see all of the sites.

Rooftop test track on top of the old Fiat Lingotto factory, Turin, Italy.

We arrived back at our hotel, the Langhe Country House in Neive in time for dinner, but didn’t feel like anything fancy. The boys requested pizza, and so our host Alex recommended his favorite spot, the local brewery, Birrificio Citabiunda. The beer was pretty good, the pizza, pasta and porchetta were outstanding, and my wife, who is not a beer drinker, enjoyed a fantastic bottle of Dolcetto. Everyone left happy and satisfied, but after our long day exploring Turin, we were eager to return to the comfort of our hotel. Langhe Country House is a beautifully restored villa and barn. The barn is now the home of the owners, Alex and Nadia and their two kids. Nadia is an architect and has done a beautiful job designing the updated lodgings, converting the barn into their home, and the old villa into a series of large en suite guest rooms. Our rooms were large, comfortable and stylish, with massive and luxurious bathrooms. Breakfast was a wonderful assortment of local baked goods, salumi, cheese and fresh fruit. There were also hard-boiled eggs and the ever-present European muesli. Alex was always on hand to keep everything stocked up and to show off his barista skills. The man makes a truly excellent cappuccino. We enjoyed a quick splash in the pool every day we stayed here. The grounds of the B&B are lovely, but the views of the surrounding hillsides, covered in vineyards and hazelnut trees makes for an incredibly relaxing environment. It was incredibly relaxing to just float against the wall of the infinity pool and stare out at the vineyards below.

Azienda Agricola Camparo, Diano d’Alba, Italy.

The next day we set out for the nearby hill town of Grinzane Cavour. The castle that sits at the top is a Unesco protected site, which now houses a museum, a restaurant, a nice wine shop, and the annual Alba white truffle auction each November. There are several good places in town to grab lunch, but we had come to visit Sara at Camparo Vineyards. For three generations, Sara’s family has been making amazing wines on their completely organic estate here in the Langhe. Today, you can find their wines all around the world, and if you can’t make it to Piemonte to taste them, they are well worth tracking down in your own neck of the woods. After enjoying her family’s wines, Sara insisted on arranging dinner reservations at her favorite restaurant, Trattoria Nelle Vigne. And what a spectacular meal it was. Situated at the top of a hill, surrounded by stunning vineyard views, Trattoria Nelle Vigne is a culinary delight. Dinner is a five course fixed tasting local antipasti, followed by one or two courses of your choice of pasta or protein, followed by dessert. It was an amazing meal from start to finish, but the most amazing thing might have been the bill. 6 people, 7 courses, 2 bottles of wine, espresso and amaro (my favorite Italian after dinner “digestive”) all total was $189 Euro. One of the greatest meals of my life was $32 per person with wine. Have I mentioned how much I love Italy?

The Castello, Grinzane Cavour, Italy.

We spent the next day exploring the beautiful hilltop village of Neive, tasting more excellent local wine and dining in equally fine and affordable restaurants. Neive is considered one of the prettiest villages in the Langhe for good reason. The scale of it is easily accessible on foot, and it is all in good repair and obviously well loved by its inhabitants. There are a number of wineries with tasting rooms here and several excellent restaurants. We especially enjoyed the wine tasting at Rivetti Massimo followed by a marvelous lunch at Degusto. That evening, our hosts Nadia and Alex had arranged a cooking class for us in nearby Alba at the home of Fernanda Giamello, where we would learn to make a few local specialties. It was a treat to learn to make traditional hazelnut cookies, baked peaches with amaretti filling, squash flan with a savory cheese fondue, fresh handmade “Plin” ravioli and one of my favorites, rabbit braised in Barolo wine. These traditional Piemontese dishes will be making an appearance on our table at home soon.

Magnums of Nebbiolo, Camparo, Diano d’Alba, Italy.

The following day found us once again loading up our rental car with people and luggage, making the final leg of our journey to Milan, in preparation for our flight home. Milan is a city that deserves more than one day of exploration, but with the help of Tours By Locals, we hired a local guide, Barbara Quarello to show us around. Hiring a local guide may seem like an extravagance for one day in Milan, but you get to see a lot more in a shorter period of time with a guide. They often have the ability to jump to the head of a line at museums and cathedral tours, and the one thing you never have enough of when travelling is time. We walked through the golden square, where all the top designers have showrooms and studios, explored the Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuale II, La Scala, the Brera Academy of Fine Arts, and the Castello Sforzesco, home to several museums, including one for Michelangelo and one for Leonardo da Vinci, who spent more than 20 years of his life here. The castle was his home during the time when he worked on The Last Supper, which can be viewed at the nearby Basilica di Santa Maria delle Grazie, if you buy tickets far enough in advance.

Il Duomo di Milano.

Sadly all good things must come to an end, the next day we packed up and headed to Milan-Malpensa airport for our long flight home. I should mention we spent that last night at the Four Seasons Milano. A spectacularly beautiful hotel with impeccable service, and every luxury & convenience you would expect from a 5-star city hotel, and the price tag to match. We had originally booked into a small, stylish boutique hotel that occupied a former perfume factory. Unfortunately, they cancelled on us at the last minute due to a renovation project gone awry. No worries, we’ll be back. I need several more days in Milan, a couple more in Turin, and a lifetime to explore the rest of Piemonte and the Langhe.

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan, Italy.

Good For Your Soul – Northern Italy:

Lake Maggiore – cruise the lake on a hired boat or water taxi, and explore the three Borromean Islands, enjoy the relaxing charm of Castello dal Pozzo and dine well at Bue D’Oro.

The Langhe – Langhe Country House just outside the beautiful village of Neive for accommodations. Wine tasting at Camparo Vineyards, and Rivetti Massimo. Amazing meals at Birrificio Citabiunda, Degusto and Trattoria Nelle Vigne. Just drive around and explore the beautiful hill towns of the area.

Turin – Eataly, Museo Egizio, Museo Nazionale dell’Automobile, Pinacoteca Agnelli and the old Fiat factory.

Milan – The Duomo, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuale II, La Scala, Castello Sforzesco and the The Last Supper, window shopping in the Quadrilatero d’Oro.

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part IV : Switzerland : Europe – Summer 2017

August 19, 2017November 14, 2018Robert Puertas

The view across the valley from Murren towards Wengen.

Itinerary:

Wed. July 26 – disembark Basel – train to Murren – 3 nights at Hotel Eiger

Sat. July 29 – train to Lucerne – 2 nights at Art Deco Hotel Montana

Mon. July 31 – train to Lugano – drive to Lake Maggiore

Wednesday morning came too soon. It was a cool, dark drizzly morning in Basel, and we were quite sad to leave the River Empress and her crew behind. Quite a few passengers were headed to Basel central station, and so Uniworld had arranged a bus to take us. We were delivered to the station where we then drifted apart to separate platforms and on to different destinations. Ours would be Murren, high in the Swiss Alps. We took a train to Interlaken, and then changed for Lauterbrunnen, where we climbed into a cable car, which took us up 1400 feet to Grutschalp where we transferred to a small old narrow gauge train, which wound around the mountain to Murren station.

The narrow gauge rail car that runs from Grutschalp to Murren.

It sounds more complicated than it is. And of course Swiss Rail is famous for its timeliness; you really can set your watch by those trains. There was always just enough time to get from one to the other. The only rough moment happened as we switched trains in Interlaken, rough only because we went the wrong way and had to bump our luggage up and down the stairs rather than using the ramp. The best part was watching our luggage get transferred from the rack below the cable car to the vintage narrow gauge train in Grutschalp. They use a forklift to move the entire basket, which on our trip included a full-size upright refrigerator. Why would they move a refrigerator on a cable car? Because you can’t easily drive up to Murren, the window of time when the road is passable is very short, and the road is long and winding. There are only a handful of vehicles up in the tiny town. Aside from one vintage Land Rover, the handful of vehicles that I saw were undersized utility things, like you would expect to find maintaining the lawns at a golf resort.

The view down the valley towards Lauterbrunnen.

The entire trip up from Basel was one beautiful vista after another. But nothing really prepares you for the drama of Murren, situated across the valley from the trio of Alpine peaks, the Eiger, the Monch, and the Jungfrau. We checked into the Hotel Eiger, had a fantastic lunch in their bar, and then set off for a walk around town. Murren is a charming little village, full of Alpine chalets and the ever-present views across the valley. We watched paragliders soaring up and down the valley, and enjoyed the beauty and silence of a town free of cars and with very few tourists. Make no mistake; Murren is a resort town. People come from all over to hike in the summer and ski in the winter. But it never felt crowded, as most visitors, at least during the summer, come from Lauterbrunnen or Interlaken, and they only stop in Murren briefly on their way up to the Schilthorn, the mountain top restaurant made famous by the James Bond movie, “In Her Majesty’s Secret Service.”

Trummelbach Falls.

We enjoyed wonderful breakfasts and dinners at The Eiger Hotel, especially the traditional Raclette dinner on Thursday night. During the day, we explored the area, one day, taking the cable car back down to the valley floor and hiking down the valley to see the Trummelbach Falls. Trummelbach is a confluence of 10 glacial waterfalls inside the mountain, made accessible by a funicular lift. You are carried up several stories into the mountain at a nearly 45-degree angle, stepping out into a world of thunder and fog. The falls have carved a circuitous path through the heart of the mountain, which vibrates with the force of up to 20,000 liters of water per second, and the resultant mist penetrates every nook and cranny. It is loud, violent and one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. On returning to the outside world, we had an excellent lunch at the restaurant here before hopping on the bus back to the cable car station. It should be noted that Swiss Rail travel passes are also accepted for Swiss buses and most cable cars. Certain routes, like the cable car to the Schilthorn gives travel pass carriers a 50% discount, and the kids were always free with an accompanying adult.

Spectacular views from atop the Schilthorn.

The trip up to the Schilthorn requires changing cable cars halfway at Birg. There is a snack bar here and a large viewing terrace, the tip of which has a glass floor. There is also a “Thrill Walk” pathway that wraps around the cliff face, dangling out over space as it clings to the vertical wall of rock. Nope, nope, nopity nope. Not for me. But the views over Murren and out to the Jungfrau are spectacular. Hopping onto the next cable car takes you the final leg up to Schilthorn and Restaurant Piz Gloria at 9744 ft. The circular restaurant is at the top of the structure, and the outer edge of the floor rotates around so that in the course of your lunch, you rotate the full 360-degrees in 45 minutes. The view on a clear day is simply spectacular. But make sure you check the live webcam before heading up, as it is not unusual for the peak to be completely shrouded in mist. There is also a modest James Bond museum and a number of amusing 007-themed photo ops. The real magic is the view though, being surrounded on all sides by glacier-covered peaks simply takes your breath away. For some it even induces a little vertigo, as there is no flat line of horizon to be found anywhere.

The playground at Allmendhubel.

The next day we rode the funicular up to Allmendhubel, the site of a terrific kids’ playground, an excellent little restaurant and a wildflower sanctuary. We got lucky with our timing and watched a small herd of cattle being moved into the adjacent pasture. Swiss cows famously wear bells and are well versed in moo-ing loud enough to be heard above the din of the musical instruments hanging from their collars. They are talkative and actually seem pleased to pose for photos with the hikers. Seeing them in this stunning landscape you can’t help but understand why the local cheese is so delicious.

Happy Swiss cows.

Not just the cheese, but everything else too. We enjoyed excellent meals throughout our stay in Switzerland and terrific local wines. I had no prior experience with Swiss wine, as it is difficult to find in California, and often quite expensive here. Another surprise was the lettuce. Every garden in Murren has a vegetable patch and the Swiss especially enjoy their salads. Freshly picked each morning, crisp, clean and flavorful, and their local “French” dressing is a light creamy-white concoction full of garlic and herbs. I will be recreating that back home for sure.

From left to right; the Eiger, the Monch, and the Jungfrau – as seen from our balcony at Hotel Eiger.

The kids were sad to leave Murren the next day; it truly is a magical place. We all agreed we would come back as soon as possible. But leave we must, as we had reservations that night in Lucerne. The trip back down the mountain was more relaxing than the trek up. We knew where to go and how to avoid the stairs in Interlaken. We enjoyed the company of a nice couple from York, England. Having never met before getting on the old narrow gauge train, but knowing we had this place in common, we chatted away like old friends. We reached Lucerne, and filed out of the station, pulling our luggage behind us, directly onto the shore of beautiful Lake Lucerne.

Lake Lucerne – as seen from our balcony at Art Deco Hotel Montana.

Lucerne is a beautiful city, a somehow perfect meshing of old and new. Old painted facades abut modern buildings and vintage steam paddle wheel ferries carry passengers around the lake beside more modern vessels. Just as the cities along the Rhine engaged the river in a direct way, the river was the main method of travel when those cities were built after all, Lucerne engages the lake and the old town addresses the river that flows out of it in a similar way. Buildings all around the lake are oriented to take advantage of the lovely views. Waterfront cafes and restaurants are everywhere, as are docks for boats, both commercial and private. The river cuts through the old town and two ancient looking covered bridges span it, the famous Chapel Bridge, or Kapellbrucke, is adorned with paintings that date back to the 17^th century. It was originally built in the 1300’s, but was partially destroyed by fire in 1993 when 2/3s of the paintings, created during the Counter-Reformation, were lost. The bridge was restored in 1994.

The view from Spreuerbrucke back towards the Old Town and Lake Lucerne.

Strolling through old town, you see many of the facades are decorated with painted frescoes; some made to appear as if they had 3-dimensional carvings, others with fanciful scenes, or large murals, and still others with family crests or whole family trees. It gives the old town a fairy tale quality, a feeling that is magnified by the old covered bridges, and by the stunning views across the lake. All of the big name jewelers and watchmakers have shops here in Lucerne, and its fun to window shop.

The Stadt Luzern pulls away from the dock in Weggis.

The beautiful views out of the lake from our balcony at the Art Deco Hotel Montana, drew us out upon the water. We saw the sailboats and ferries and pull way from their docks down below us and watched as they headed east across the lake slowly drifting around the bend and out of view. We walked down into the port area one morning and hopped onto the Stadt Luzern, the largest salon paddle steamer on the lake, in use since 1928. She is a lovely ship, the only thing that out shines her lovely art deco salons are the brass fittings of her enormous 3-cylinder engine. We rode the Stadt Luzern to the nearby village of Weggis, famous for its lovely lake front promenade and band shell, and an almost perfect tranquility.

Lucerne’s Lion Monument.

That famous American travel writer, Mark Twain, loved lake Lucerne, and he said of the small lakeside village of Weggis; “I believe that this place is the loveliest in the world, and the most satisfactory. The scenery is beyond comparison beautiful… Sunday in heaven is noisy compared to this quietness.” There is a small park dedicated to Twain on the eastern edge of town and a hiking trail leading up to Mount Rigi, commemorating Twain’s own hike up to the top of this famous peak. Twain was also a fan of Lucerne’s Lion Monument, calling it “the most mournful and moving piece of stone in the world.”

Hofkirche St. Leodegar, Lucerne.

That night, based on the recommendations of locals, we peaked into Hofkirche St. Leodegar a beautiful little church, on our way to the restaurant of a small inn, Hotel zum Rebstock. We sat in the back garden and enjoyed a wonderful meal and terrific local wines. Next time I return to Lucerne, I will be staying here. Don’t get me wrong; the Art Deco Hotel Montana has large comfortable rooms, unbeatable views, an excellent restaurant and a jazz bar with an impressive scotch selection. But Hotel zum Rebstock, is more intimate, and it’s charming décor, excellent traditional food and small, dedicated staff is more my speed.

Hofkirche St. Leodegar, Lucerne.

The next morning we packed up and pulled our luggage back to the train station. We were heading to Italy, and we were taking Swiss Rail to Lugano, a Swiss resort lake town nestled between the Italian lakes of Como and Maggiore.

Bahnhof, Lucerne.

Good For Your Soul – Switzerland:

Swiss Rail – clean, comfortable trains that are always on time.

Murren – amazingly beautiful scenery and relaxing atmosphere.

Hotel Eiger – awesome views, delicious food, comfortable rooms, great staff.

Trummelbach Falls – natural beauty and power unlike anything I’ve seen before.

Schilthorn – breathtaking 360-degree views, a dramatic trip up and a 007 museum. Wanna-be James Bonds can hike or ski back down.

Allmendhubel – beautiful views and a nice park for kids make the excellent restaurant even more appealing. The funicular ride up is fun, but next time I’m looking forward to hiking back down to Murren.

Lucerne – old town, Chapel Bridge, Hofkirche St. Leodegar, Lion Monument, window shopping, Hotel zum Rebstock.

Swiss Cheese – Raclette, fondue, and any local cheese you can find.

Swiss Wine – We had wonderful wines throughout Switzerland, but my favorites were the Cabernet-Zweigelt from Brunner Weinmanufaktur, the Riesling-Silvaner from Weinbau Ottiger, and the Rose of Blauburgunder Garanoir from Spiezer. Oh, and don’t miss the excellent distilled spirits from Sigrist, especially the Vielle Prune.

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part III : Rhine River Cruise : Europe – Summer 2017

August 18, 2017November 14, 2018Robert Puertas

View of Filsen, Germany, across the Rhine from Boppard

Itinerary:

Wed. July 19 – board the cruise ship in Amsterdam – Uniworld River Empress

Thurs. July 20 – Cologne

Fri. July 21 – Koblenz

Sat. July 22 – Rudesheim

Sun. July 23 – Speyer

Mon. July 24 – Strasbourg

Tues. July 25 – Breisach

Wed. July 26 – disembark Basel

Wednesday morning came and it was time to pack up our things. We enjoyed our last breakfast at Museum Suites, and then brought our luggage downstairs to be held until it was time to head for the ship. We went for one last stroll around Amsterdam, had a quick snack and then back to the hotel and into a Taxi van to be delivered to the ship that would be our home for the next week. I have to confess; I was not super excited about this part of our trip. As a travel aficionado, I enjoy the planning of trips, researching where to go and what to do. I enjoy exploring new places, finding the best local restaurants, and discovering hidden gems. I enjoy driving in Europe, where for the most part there is less congestion and better drivers. And so, I was not so thrilled to be trapped on a boat with 120 other tourists, and one predictable restaurant. Boy was I in for a surprise.

Photo courtesy of Uniworld

We boarded at 3pm, and after checking in, were directed to relax in the restaurant where snacks and drinks were being served until our rooms were ready. There was a nice selection of fresh fruit, a decent looking cheese plate and salumi platter, as well as a couple of hot dishes and a pretty impressive dessert tray. OK maybe the food part would be ok. Then a waiter stopped by to take our drink order. I asked for a beer, preferably something Belgian. Moments later I had a bottle of La Trappe, a Trappist tripel ale in my hand.

Clockwise from upper left; King Ludwig, Fourme d’Ambert, Chaource

I then noticed we had pulled away from the dock and were sailing up river. I hadn’t felt a thing. Other families started drifting out of the restaurant, and sure enough, people were starting to get into their cabins. We picked up our room keys; for the next week, Finn and I would be sharing one cabin, and Jill and Beckett would be across the hall. The rooms were very nice, not huge, but big enough and comfortable. The bathrooms were small, of course, but hopefully no one would be spending too much time in there. The beds were very comfortable and everything was very clean and stylish. The TV had a great selection of movies, both recent releases and old classics. There was adequate closet space, a stocked writing desk, a small safe and a charging station for our audio tour headsets. All topped off with a nice bowl of fruit and a chilled bottle of champagne.

Chef Bogdan’s Lemon Souffle

We unpacked, and relaxed for a while before heading down to dinner in the restaurant. And it was an excellent dinner, a 4-course meal with 3 or 4 choices at each course. Well-chosen complimentary wine pairings and a nice wine list if you wanted to upgrade to a premium option. We each had a credit from booking through American Express, and I spent mine on the good stuff. You could have opted for a spa treatment, or gone shopping in the small boutique on board, but I’d rather enjoy a really nice bottle of wine or a 21 year-old single malt.

The good stuff

We enjoyed the Chef’s tremendous efforts every meal we ate on board. Each night he prepared a different menu, leaning heavily on local purveyors who he met with at every stop along the way. The house wine pairings changed nightly to match the dishes, and usually they were from wineries local to where we were along the Rhine. The kitchen staff totaled eight, with an equal number of servers. They were all excellent at their jobs. Talented and hospitable, they were quick to smile and eager to help, and happy to share recipes and suggestions of what to do in the ports we visited. In fact every person on board was a pleasure to deal with. Even the other passengers! The tour host and the two family hosts were terrific with the kids, and when we had tours off the boat, the local guides were all excellent.

Cologne Cathedral and the golden reliquary holding the bones of the three magi

We quickly fell into a routine where we would enjoy a leisurely breakfast on board as we pulled into dock, and then we would disembark and go explore a town. Usually, we would have a short guided tour of the place, with a couple of tour options, one being more kid focused, and then we were cut loose to explore on our own. This worked well for our family as it gave us a quick orientation and often a guided tour of the important landmarks, such as a guided tour of the Cologne Cathedral followed by a beer tasting at a local brewery. The cathedral is beautiful, the largest gothic cathedral in Europe and one of the tallest interior spaces in Europe with soaring columns decorated with statues. The golden coffin in the apse is said to hold the bones of the 3 Magi. A short stroll away through Cologne’s central pedestrian shopping district brings you to Fruh am Dom. This traditional German brewhouse is hard to miss, and harder to pass by. The warm welcoming façade with umbrella-clad tables out front is very inviting, and well worth a visit for a meal or even just a glass of beer, served in long, thin 0.2 liter glasses called Stange. These glasses seem unique to Cologne, and I’m told they do this because the taste of the beer deteriorates quickly in the glass. I can tell you with absolute certainty; it was never in there long enough for me to find out.

A stange of Fruh

Our local guide was excellent, and afterwards, kindly recommended his favorite nearby restaurant. And so we enjoyed a delicious traditional German meal at Peters Brauhaus. They have a large outside seating area, but do yourself a favor and sit inside. It’s a lovely old restaurant with wood paneling and large colorful murals. The food is excellent, and unlike most traditional brewhouses they also have a good selection of local wines. Finally, we finished the day with a quick peak inside St. Maria Lyskirchen, a small 13^th century church with it’s original painted ceilings still intact. When we visited, there were no pews or chairs inside, making it feel moody and according to Beckett, “seriously creepy.” I thought it was seriously cool. Happily, the rest of my family were able to re-center themselves across the street at the Lindt Chocolate Museum.

St. Maria Lyskirchen, Cologne

The next day brought us to Koblenz, a town built at the confluence of the Mosel and Rhine rivers. Our local guide led the kids on a scavenger hunt before letting us loose to wander the old town. The kids’ favorite find was a statue of a young boy, “Schängelbrunnen” who spits water at regular intervals. This naughty boy is the mascot of the town, and his image can be found all over the city. Koblenz has a lovely old town center, and a great park at the “German Corner,” the headland where the Mosel joins the Rhine. There is a giant monument to William I, the first emperor of Germany, and it’s a popular spot for tourists and locals alike to sit and enjoy the view. There are a number of small cafes just steps away, including an excellent ice cream stand and a small beer garden, the Ludwig Art Museum and the Basilica Sankt Kastor, which has lovely gardens to wander through.

“Honey, just take one more step back…”

We returned to the ship for a quick lunch, and then hopped on a tour bus for a ride up to Marksburg Castle. This lovingly preserved medieval castle, sits high atop a hill overlooking the Rhine. It is the only hilltop castle along the Rhine that was never conquered or destroyed. Entry to the castle includes a 50 minute guided tour. The peak into life inside a medieval castle is fascinating, and the views from the yards and battlements are outstanding. After our tour, the bus delivered us to Boppard where our ship had relocated. We would dock there for the night before sailing through the Rhine Gorge the following day.

Marksburg Castle

The bus dropped us off well before dinner, so we wandered the streets of Boppard, exploring the Roman ruins, and checking out the small shops. I had stopped into a café for a coffee, and by chance stumbled across one with zwetschgenkuchen. For those of you unfamiliar with this German delicacy, it is a sheet pastry made with prune plums. In California, I can only get this type of plum for a couple of weeks in September, so I was shocked to find it on the menu here in July. Sadly, this first taste was a disappointment. It was too “cakey” and the plums lacked the tartness I expected from a good zwetchge. The next morning I awoke early, checked with the crew to confirm I had time, and walked back into town to find a bakery. I was hoping to find redemption, and did I ever. I brought back a giant slice of excellent zwetschgenkuchen, grabbed a mug of coffee from the bar, and headed topside to enjoy the view.

Zwetschgenkuchen. It’s what’s for breakfast!

The Rhine Gorge, or more properly, the Upper Middle Rhine Valley is an Unesco World Heritage Site for a unique combination of geological, historical, cultural and industrial reasons. It is one of the narrowest sections of the river, with steep cliffs, dramatic vineyards, and towering castles at every turn. We had overnighted in Boppard, specifically so that we could cruise through this section of the river in daylight. And it was a spectacular day. The bright blue sky was clear, the sun shining on castles and vineyards alike. We passed one stunning vista after another, non-stop for several hours. It is slow going through here, as the river is at its narrowest and most twisty. Which suited us just fine as it gave us more time to admire the beauty around every bend.

Cruising through the Rhine Gorge – Burg Maus on the hill above the village of Ehrenthal

Later in the afternoon, we cruised into Rudesheim am Rhein, the end of the “gorge” but at the heart of the Rheingau, one of the key wine making regions of Germany, famous for its Riesling. Rudesheim is a bit touristy for my tastes, but Uniworld had booked two tours that it made it worth the while. First, there is an excellent museum of mechanical musical oddities. Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Cabinet is the result of one man’s lifelong passion to collect and restore old music boxes and mechanical instruments. The kids and adults alike were fascinated with these cool old contraptions. Better yet though was a tour and tasting at the Schloss Vollrads wine estate. The castle and its grounds are breathtaking, and the wine is superb. We enjoyed a private tour of the castle and a tasting of four different Rieslings. They have been making wine here for over 300 years, and they are quite good at it. As an architect, I’d like to think their beautiful working environment is a contributing factor to their success.

Schloss Vollrads wine estate

The next day brought us to Speyer, where the kids had a climbing and zip-line adventure at Kletterwald before exploring the town’s excellent transportation museum. It was a full day of large muscle movement for the young and young at heart. But we still had enough time at the end of the day to walk into the center of town and check out the lovely cathedral and its gardens. Speyer is a charming old town with a wide pedestrian focused center, full of shops and restaurants and decorated everywhere with great public art and loads of flowers. In contrast, the Romanesque Speyer Cathedral is almost completely devoid of decoration and as a consequence looks practically modern inside, despite being consecrated in 1061.

Technik Museum Speyer

Kletterwald ropes course and zip-line park

We woke the next day in Strasbourg. After four days cruising the heart of Germany, we’d finally reached Alsace. This is where the Rhine becomes the border between Germany and France, and the confluence of cultures is nowhere more evident than this beautiful city. We climbed to the top of Strasbourg’s Cathedral for breathtaking panoramic views and then wandered around the cobbled streets and canals of this Unesco world heritage city, the only entire city center to be designated such. Strasbourg has changed hands between Germany and France so many times that the residents consider themselves Alsatians first and French or German second. They even have their own dialect and cuisine. It’s a fascinating place, and although the area just around the cathedral is predictably touristy, those who wander a few streets away will be rewarded with great restaurants and shops full of quality local goods. If you are a Cheese-aholic, like me, you’ll want to stop in at La Cloche a Fromage, one of the most amazing cheese shops I’ve ever seen.

332 steps up to the viewing platform atop Strasbourg Cathedral

The next day brought us to Breisach, while others visited the famously picturesque town of Colmar, we visited the Ecomusee d’Alsace, a recreation of a life in Alsace from over 100 years ago. They have rescued a large number of old Alsatian homes and workshops and brought them here to recreate an entire village, complete with livestock, a blacksmith and a bakery. Where I got to try the Alsatian version of zwetschgenkuchen, or as they call it, quetschekuche. This French twist on a traditional German dessert combines a shortening crust with a thin layer of custard topped with my favorite prune plums. Let me tell you, the Alsatians are on to something. In addition to preserving traditional buildings and culture, the village is also a sanctuary for storks. These large graceful birds have built their enormous nests atop nearly every structure in the village, and their presence makes the place feel even more surreal.

Stork nests sit atop nearly every building at the Ecomusee d’Alsace

We returned to Breisach with plenty of time to explore this sleepy little town. Those who climbed the steps up to its hilltop church were rewarded with fantastic views of the countryside, and the stunning interiors of St. Stephan’s Cathedral.

Photo courtesy of Munster Sankt Stephan

That evening we sailed on towards Basel and the end of our journey. All told, we made our way through 8 locks en route from Amsterdam to Basel, some large enough to hold our ship along side a freight hauler of a size with us. Some so tight, there was less than 12 inches to spare on either side of the ship. It was fascinating to watch these engineering marvels in action and a pleasure to watch our competent crew do their jobs.

Inches to spare!

It was all well curated and efficiently handled. We never felt like we were waiting around for no reason, or that we wasted time or energy for no reason. And none of these excursions cost a penny extra. There were yoga classes and hikes or bike rides each day if you wanted to participate. Educational opportunities and lectures several days, and very good musical entertainment in the lounge, not to mention a talented bartender with a well-stocked bar. The kids had their own lounge with board games and a Xbox, plus two dedicated staff members to entertain them. And the bartender and kitchen staff was constantly popping in with treats for them. The kids especially enjoyed an afternoon in the rooftop lounge with the Chef making Belgian waffles and topping them with every sort of fruit and treat you could imagine.

Well now I just have to send a postcard…

As the person normally responsible for playing tour guide and driving and picking restaurants and which site to visit next, I found the week aboard the River Empress incredibly relaxing. The kids had the run of the ship and I never had to worry about where they were or what they were doing. I could just sit back and relax and watch the beautiful scenery drift by. Sitting on the top deck after dinner, watching the sun set with a glass of single malt in your hand is a great way to recharge your batteries.

So beautiful, so relaxing, so delicious. So good for your soul.

Good For Your Soul – The Rhine River:

Uniworld River Empress – A river cruise is a terrific way to explore this part of Germany.

Cologne – The Cathedral, St. Maria Lyskirchen, Lindt Chocolate Museum, Peters Brauhaus, Fruh am Dom.

Koblenz – The historic city center, the Schangelbrunnen Fountain, the German Corner, and nearby Marksburg Castle.

The Rhine River Gorge – from Koblenz to Rudesheim, the little villages on the river with castles and vineyards above.

Schloss Vollrads – Just outside of Rudesheim, this is one of the finest wine estates in Germany.

The Alsace:

Strasbourg – the heart of Alsace with a lovely cathedral and charming historic center.

Colmar – one of the prettiest towns in this region famous for pretty towns, but don’t miss the nearby Ecomusee d’Alsace, or St. Stephan’s Cathedral in Breisach

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part II : Amsterdam : Europe – Summer 2017

August 17, 2017November 14, 2018Robert Puertas

The I Amsterdam Sign in front of the Rijksmuseum

We landed at Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport (AMS) just after 1pm on a rainy Sunday Afternoon. Schiphol is an attractive modern airport, clean and easy to navigate. Our party of six consisted of my wife and I, our two boys, ages 8 & 12, and my in-laws. We quickly collected our bags and breezed through passport control. We could have hopped on the train into Amsterdam, but a little research before hand had showed me that the closest train stop was several blocks from our hotel. If I had been alone, or just with my wife, I would have hopped on the train and enjoyed the walk from the station. But with two kids, two seniors (both of whom are quite fit by the way) and everyone’s’ luggage, a taxi seemed like a better plan. Besides, when 6 people are sharing a taxi van, it often ends up being cost competitive with the train fare.

Museum Suites Boutique Hotel

We checked into Museum Suites and the manager, Kim kindly gave us maps and info on the city as well as a quick tour of the little hotel that would be our home for the next 3 days. It’s a lovely little brick row house in the typical Amsterdam fashion, 4 stories high and beautifully detailed inside and out. The public rooms are gorgeous as befitted its earlier life as the home of the first director of the Rijksmuseum. It is located just a few blocks west of the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseum, and 1 block south of Vondelpark, in a quiet tree-lined neighborhood away from the hustle and bustle of the city’s more touristy areas. Excellent cafes and restaurants are just a few steps away, as are stylish local shops for clothing and home furnishings.

Prinsengracht Canal

Once we had stowed our luggage and splashed a little water on our faces, we decided a walk around town was in order. We headed off towards the old city center, strolling past the museums and stepping directly into that picture you have in your head of what Amsterdam looks like. Canals full of slowly moving boats and tall row houses with stylish facades, flower boxes and the occasional, faint scent of cannabis.

Keizersgracht Canal

Amsterdam really is a lovely town and I look forward to exploring it further. There are wonderful art galleries and antique shops, excellent cafes and restaurants around every corner, dozens of museums, a number of which are truly world class. It is an easy city to walk, but don’t miss the opportunity to cruise the canals. Better yet, if you get the chance, act like a local and borrow a bike. Everyone bikes here, and the city caters more to bike travel than it does to cars or pedestrians. You can’t miss the huge bicycle parking structure near the central train station where commuters park their bikes. Bikes have their own dedicated lanes everywhere, and they have right of way. Bicyclists in Amsterdam rarely wear helmets, and in my 3 days there I saw a few close calls, but never any collisions. Which, given the sheer number of them, is shocking.

Bicycle parking “flat” at the Amsterdam Central Train Station

The next day we had tickets to the Anne Frank House. We had booked this well in advance, and knowing we were coming here, the whole family had read Diary of Anne Frank. So we knew the history of the place, and why it was important. The museum is a somber place. There is no photography, and silence is encouraged. There is an excellent audio tour, which is well narrated and compounds the emotional investment and sympathy you already have for the plight of this beautiful and talented young girl who’s world was so tragically torn apart by the Nazi invasion. I feel trite and inadequate even describing the museum here in a travel blog. But if you can make it to this beautiful city, do yourself the favor of spending a couple of hours here at Anne Frank House. You and perhaps the world will be better off for it. I know thinking about it now; it make me want to be a better person, and to quote Anne, “How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to improve the world.”

Image courtesy of Nederlands Bureau voor Toerisme

A short walk across town brings you to another Museum devoted to yet another tragic figure that made the world a better place. The Van Gogh Museum is a startling revelation. We have all seen images of his paintings; I’ve seen a few in person, even 20 or so together at one time at a travelling exhibition that came to Los Angeles. But to see almost 200 of his paintings and sketches together, presented chronologically to show the development of his style and to tell the story of his life, is an incredible thing. Unlike any other museum I have visited. Photography is forbidden, but the audio tour is excellent.

No Photography is allowed in the Van Gogh museum, so this self-portrait is from the Rijksmuseum.

In order to avoid waiting in really long lines, you will want to book these two museums ahead of time. Both the Anne Frank House and the Van Gogh Museum, sell tickets for specific entry times starting 60 days out. We did this with Anne Frank House about 6 weeks ahead of our arrival and were glad we did, as these pre-sale tickets can sell out. For the Van Gogh Museum, we were able to buy 6 tickets for a time slot that worked for us just two days ahead of time. Obviously these things change somewhat depending on time of year and the number of tourists in town, and the Van Gogh Museum is capable of handling quite a few more guests at the same time. The Anne Frank House is obviously a much smaller facility, and they carefully control the number of people that are inside at any given time.

The Night Watch by Rembrandt – photo taken in the Rijksmuseum.

The other can’t-miss museum in Amsterdam is the Rijksmuseum. This is the national museum of art, and as such houses works by great Dutch artists from the Middle Ages to present day. It is potentially an all-day place. You could easily arrive at 9am when it opens and stay until closing at 5pm and not see it all. It is that big, and comprehensive, and full of wonderful things. I hope to come back and see the parts I missed. Photography without flash is permitted and the audio tour is worthwhile. Don’t miss the Van Gogh self-portrait, Rembrandt’s The Night Watch and The Draper’s Guild, Hals’ The Merry Drinker, Vermeer’s The Milkmaid, or about 1,000 other excellent and important works. It’s a truly fantastic museum.

The Draper’s Guild by Rembrandt – photo taken in the Rijksmuseum.

All of these museums have terrific gift shops, and my wife can’t help but buy a small token to remember our visit. Usually a refrigerator magnet, but even the 8-year-old got in on the act this time, buying a poster at the Van Gogh museum. When the kid wants a famous painting to hang in his room, who am I to argue? But for serious shopping, you had better head to The Nine Streets, a famous neighborhood, not far from the Anne Frank House, with some of the coolest and most stylish shops in the city. As a designer, I’m more interested in furnishings than fashion and I found a particularly cool spot in The Frozen Fountain. Full of beautifully designed furniture and accessories from the cool and chic to the wild and whimsical, any design aficionado will find this shop and it’s unique collection appealing.

Image courtesy of Tours & Tickets

On our final night in Amsterdam, as a prelude to embarking upon our river cruise, we took a canal boat tour. We had been watching the various canal tours float by as we walked the city streets. You are never far from the water in this beautiful city, and there is always a boat floating past, even on the smaller canals. There is every conceivable option, from giant flat bottom boats, larger than city buses and carrying more people, to tiny two-person pedal boats, and everything in between. Throughout our stay, I had been especially drawn to the vintage wood boats with glass cabins or covered rear seating areas. These beautiful old boats made of golden oak and shiny brass looked so inviting, with their perfectly happy and relaxed champagne sipping passengers looked more appealing to me than the boisterous hop-on-hop-off cattle cars filled with tourists. Unfortunately, I waited too long and was unable to book one at the last minute. However, we were able to get the next best thing, and at a fraction of the price of one of the private vintage canal boats. Tours & Tickets offers what they call a Dutch Authentic Boat Cruise on a converted old trash hauler. Romantic, right? Actually it is. It’s a lovely old ship, well provisioned with cheese, salami, beer and wine, and a charming crew eager to share their love and knowledge of their city.

This kid enjoys his cheese. Reypenaer has a nice little shop on the corner of Singel Street and Torensluis.

We had some wonderful meals in Amsterdam. Breakfast every day at the hotel was excellent. In typical Dutch fashion, there were cold cuts and local cheese, excellent fresh bread, butter and preserves, plus peanut butter and chocolate sprinkles. There were bowls of fresh fruit, yogurt, cereals and muesli, plus, coffee, tea and juices and fresh hardboiled eggs. All served in a beautiful dining room full of books and art. It was an excellent way to start every day. Such a large breakfast meant we could get away with a light snack for lunch, often sharing an open face sandwich or bitterballen at a side walk café, the food at Café Gruter, nearby our hotel was particularly excellent. We also enjoyed a surprisingly good hot dog from a street vendor in the stalls along Paulus Potterstraat between the Rijksmuseum and the Van Gogh Museum. And on another day, we had excellent sandwiches and pastries from Stef’s Bakery on Nieuwe Spiegelstraat. One dinner we enjoyed cheese and crackers and wine on a canal cruise and another we had a terrific meal at Restaurant Classico, an excellent Italian spot right next to the hotel. Kim was helpful with many suggestions for places to eat, but I’m afraid our jetlag meant for early evenings and light meals and we missed out on the opportunity to try some of the local dinner spots I had been looking forward to. Yet another reason to go back!

I know what you’re thinking… what about the windmills?!?! For the most part, you’ll have to go outside the city to see a windmill. In fact, there’s only one left in the city, but it’s certainly worth the trip to visit it. Why? Because it’s right next-door to an excellent micro-brewery, Brouwerij ‘t IJ. Two of Amsterdam cultural institutions in one spot, the last remaining windmill within city limits and Amsterdam’s best micro-brewery. If that’s not good for your soul, well, at least it’s an excellent excuse to stop in for a drink.

Image courtesy of Brouweri j ‘t IJ.

Good For Your Soul – Amsterdam:

Van Gogh Museum – get tickets on-line ahead of time.

Rijksmuseum

Anne Frank House – get tickets on-line ahead of time – they go on sale 60 days out.

Canal Tour – there are a lot of tour boat companies – we chose a smaller, historic boat.

The Nine Streets – stylish shopping district great for window shopping and cool gifts.

Cheese – little cheese shops can be found throughout the city – stop in for a free taste, its real Gouda! We had a nice experience at Reypenaer.

Chocolate – dutch chocolate is apparently a thing. My wife is a big fan of Puccini.

Bitterballen – these deep-fried little beef meatballs are best enjoyed with mustard, and a tall frosty glass of local beer, preferably one from Brouwerij ‘t IJ.

Dutch Apple Pie – enjoy a slice with a cup of coffee or fresh mint tea at one of the little sidewalk cafes. American’s will find this local treat less sweet than they are used to, which I think makes it even more delicious.

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How to Plan a Vacation: Europe – Summer 2017

August 17, 2017September 10, 2018Robert Puertas

Quite a few people have asked me to post our itinerary from our family’s recent trip to Europe, and to help them plan a similar trip. Friends and family know I love to travel, and many of you have travelled with me on previous trips I’ve organized.

Few things give me greater pleasure than travel, and my preferred destination is Europe. I love the history, the art and architecture, the people, the food and drink! I have travelled Europe on my own and with family, and I’m grateful to my parents and grandparents for instilling in me that love of discovery. I have also organized trips for groups of friends, and I have been meaning to better document these trips for a while now. I firmly believe that travel is good for your soul. I feel how it changes my heart towards my fellow man. I see first hand how it changes my kids and how they perceive the world. I come back from these trips with my batteries recharged, full of new ideas, new energy, and new hope.

I hope you too can experience this feeling of rejuvenation. Come on, let’s get going.

part I : Planning : Europe – Summer 2017

24 days: Amsterdam – Rhine – Swiss Alps – Lake Maggiore – Piemonte – Milan

Itinerary:

Sun. July 16 – arrive Amsterdam – 3 nights at Museum Suites

Wed. July 19 – Board the cruise ship – Uniworld River Empress

July 20 – Cologne
July 21 – Koblenz
July 22 – Rudesheim
July 23 – Speyer
July 24 – Strasbourg
July 25 – Breisach

Wed. July 26 – disembark Basel – train to Murren – 3 nights at Hotel Eiger

Sat. July 29 – train to Lucerne – 2 nights at Art Deco Hotel Montana

Mon. July 31 – train to Lugano – drive to Lake Maggiore – 2 nights at Castello del Pozzo

Wed. Aug 2 – drive to Neive – 4 nights at Langhe Country House

Sun. Aug 6 – drive to Milan – 1 night at Four Seasons Hotel

Mon. Aug 7 – depart Milan-Malpensa Airport

Planning:

This trip came about because my in-laws wanted to do a cruise with their grandkids. After much discussion and research, we settled on a Rhine river cruise. After quite a bit more research, and prompted by Travel & Leisure’s World’s Best List we opted to give Uniworld a try. They offer a handful of cruises each year that they call “Generations Cruises.” These are family-focused cruises with dedicated family hosts and dedicated kid-friendly excursions. They incentivize families to take these specific sailings by offering ½ price fares for kids sailing on these voyages. This enables them to focus their energies on families for these cruises and presumably means there are even fewer kids on their regular cruises. I will go into more detail on Uniworld and the Rhine River cruise in a later post. But suffice to say, it was excellent and I would highly recommend it to anyone, with or without kids.

Once we had chosen the cruise, I began to build the rest of itinerary around those dates, with the idea of a total trip length of 3 weeks. With the cruise starting in Amsterdam, and ending in Basel, Switzerland, I started by mapping out possible flights in and out of Europe. First, I looked at flying into London or Paris and making our way to Normandy then through Bruges to Amsterdam, and finally, flying home from Zurich after a few days exploring Switzerland. I really want to do Normandy, Champagne and Bruges. But I think the boys will get more out of that trip at a slightly older age.

My second route, involved starting in Copenhagen, then travelling down to Amsterdam, cruising the Rhine, a few days in Switzerland then down through the Alps to Lake Como and then Venice.

Then two things happened almost simultaneously. My wife saw an episode of Rick Steves’ PBS show about the Berner Oberland region of Switzerland, after which, she demanded we visit Murren. And while pouring over guidebooks and searching the Internet, I noticed that Rick Steves had next to nothing in his books about the Piemonte region of Italy. In fact, compared to the volumes of information on touring Tuscany, Piemonte might as well be on a different planet as far as the American tourism industry is concerned. Which, considering the great wines that are made there, and the famous slow food movement that originated there, I found perplexing, and I must admit, incredibly attractive. And so was born a plan: fly into Amsterdam, take a few days to get over the jet lag and explore the city, then hop on a boat up the Rhine. Spend a few days exploring the Swiss Alps with Murren as a home base, then a quick stop in Lucerne before heading down through the Alps into northern Italy to explore Piemonte and fly home from Milan.

The next step was researching hotels and determining how much time each location would need/get. I prefer to stay at least 3-4 days in each place on a trip like this. It gives you time to explore a place and feel like you know it before moving on to the next one. I also try to keep transit times between places to less than 3 hours. More than that and you’ve spent a whole day in the car or on the train and that quickly becomes exhausting.

So here’s how it started shaping up:

3 nights in Amsterdam

7 nights on the boat

3 nights in Murren

3 nights in Lucerne

3 nights in Lake Como

3 nights in the Piemonte region

But as I dug deeper, I really wanted more time in the Langhe, the area of Piemonte where they make Barolo, Barbera, and Barbaresco, and the home of white truffles and Nutella. This lead to stealing a night from Lucerne, and due to flight times out of Milan, we decided to spend our last night in Milan rather than making the 2-hour drive from the Langhe to the airport on the morning of our departure, which in turn lead to the stealing of one night from Lake Como. Lake Como would then become Lake Maggiore, because the cool hotels on Lake Como are ludicrously expensive. Also, my preference is to visit the slightly less touristy places whenever possible.

Swiss Rail also played a hand in this. Our best deal was to get a 3-day Flex Pass. These allow for 3 days of travel within a 30-day period. Kids travel free with an accompanying adult during that period. Swiss Rail would get us from Basel where we disembarked from the boat, down to Lugano, a Swiss lake nestled between the Italian lakes of Como and Maggiore. This was important as there are multiple direct trains from Lucerne to Lugano, and it’s a big enough town to have car rental offices that have 7-passenger vans.

Hours of research netted several of the hotels straight away. I decided on our hotels in Amsterdam, Murren and Lucerne quite quickly, as well as a hotel in Milan that later cancelled due to some emergency repair work. Lots of searching on Lake Como quickly became frustrating, but it happily led me to Lake Maggiore and a terrific hotel there. As might have been predicted, Piemonte proved the most difficult. I had calls and emails out to over a dozen places before finally finding Langhe Country House in Neive. Many of these hotels never responded, or took several days to respond. Some were booked or were not equipped to accommodate extra beds in their rooms for kids. This is one of the challenges of travelling with a party of 6. Although we have the flexibility of having both kids in our room, or splitting them up and putting one in with the grandparents, some small B&Bs simply are not able to handle a group like ours. And I was intent on the idea of staying somewhere small and intimate while we were in Piemonte. I didn’t want a big hotel in Alba or Asti. I wanted to be out in the vineyards or in one of the tiny hill towns.

And so we were set. The boat was booked. Airfare was booked. Hotels were booked. Rail passes and rental car booked. Now it was time to start diving further into each location and see what tours or special event tickets we needed to book ahead of being there. Guidebooks like Rick Steves’ are incredibly helpful for this kind of info, as are hotel concierges. I always try to engage hotels directly in email conversations when I book with them. Booking directly often gives you better pricing than on-line booking sites, or where they are contractually obligated to maintain pricing, booking directly often results in other perks, like an upgraded room or complimentary breakfast or a nice bottle of wine in your room… establishing that relationship early also facilitates a dialog that can be helpful before you arrive. Reservations at special restaurants, advance tickets to shows or museums that fill up early, private after hour tours, these are all things that we wouldn’t have gotten if we’d booked though a third party booking site. For me, the joy of travel is often about these personal connections we make.

Next up, Amsterdam!