Scotland : Fall 2016 – Good for Your Soul Travel

I had been to Scotland with my family in summer of 2015, and came back raving to my friends about the country’s beautiful sites, fascinating history, warm hospitality, excellent food, and of course the magic of tasting Single Malt right at the distillery. I belong to a group that does regular whisky tastings, and so I had a very receptive audience when I told them all we needed to plan a trip to go Scotch tasting in the Speyside region, the home of Scotland’s most famous distilleries. Glenlivet, Glenfiddich, and Macallan are some of the biggest names in Whisky, and all of them are located along the river Spey in the northeast of Scotland. Naturally, we wouldn’t be touring any of those massive commercial places. We were going to focus on the smaller distilleries, many of which don’t even have distribution in the US. And so early one Monday morning at the end of September, nine friends from Orange County, California, strode out from Edinburgh Airport under a bright blue sky. There was a pleasant nip to the air, and a sense of adventure lending a bounce to our steps.

Our motley crew visiting Ballindalloch Distillery, Scotland. World’s greatest tour guide, Brian Robinson is the one wearing a tie.

We met our new best friend Barry in the loading zone. Barry would be our driver and guide for the next week, as he and his bus would carry us back and forth across the northeast from Edinburgh to Inverness and back again. We would later find out something truly disturbing about Barry; he doesn’t actually like Scotch. Now perhaps in retrospect, this is a good thing, no temptation on his part to drink and drive. Other than that, Barry was a terrific driver and an amiable host, quickly becoming part of our group. His mini-bus, designed to seat 20, was perfect for our group of 9 guys. It was comfortable and had plenty of room for our luggage as well as our daily shopping trips. The first of which was only 90 minutes north of Edinburgh in Pitlochry. Our first stop was Blair-Athol Distillery, where we had a lovely private tour and tasting. Blair-Athol, is a beautiful old distillery (established in 1798) and they do an informative tour with a nice tasting at the end. Like many distilleries, a large percentage of their production goes to make blended whisky, in their case Bell’s. But they also do a small run of single malt, which they offer as a 12-year-old. We tasted that, alongside their cask strength single malt and a rare bottle from their sister distillery, Caol Ila. After the tasting, we ventured into their shop to purchase what would be the first of many souvenir bottles.

Blair-Athol Distillery, Pitlochry, Scotland.

By now we were ready for lunch, so we loaded back onto the bus and headed up to the Blair Atholl Watermill, an old grain mill, with a tearoom attached. They still process their own grain here, using the ancient waterwheel to drive the mill. They also have a nice little café and tearoom where they sell the baked goods they create from their own grain. They even offer bread-baking classes, so I think I might need to come back and spend a couple of days. Truthfully, it would be worth it for the shortbread cookies alone, but their malted barley bread is pretty delicious. Thus fortified, we continued north for the Speyside village of Aberlour and Dowan’s Hotel where we would spend the next four nights.

Dowan’s Hotel, Aberlour, Scotland.

Dowan’s is a lovely old hotel, totally restored and modernized by someone with a real sense of style. It’s a family affair, and the Murrays all make you feel like you’re part of the family. The rooms are large and very comfortable as are the en-suite bathrooms. The public spaces are lovingly put together and very comfortable. The grounds are beautifully kept and presented. And the food is outstanding. Hot breakfasts are prepared to order each morning, in addition to a small side table with juices, fruit, muesli and pastries. Dinner in the two restaurants is excellent. We dined in each during our stay, in the more casual Restaurant 57 on our first night, which also serves as the breakfast room. And on our last night, we enjoyed a wonderful private four-course meal in Spe, the hotel’s Scotch library.

The old Aberlour railway station, Charlestown of Aberlour, Scotland.

Our second day in Scotland dawned bright and too early. But after a terrific breakfast of kippers and eggs, I was ready to taste more Scotch. Strangely, I was the only one to order kippers. Everyone else had eggs benedict or French toast. Anyway, it was time to load up for the short drive to Ballindalloch. This would be interesting, as Ballindalloch is Scotland’s newest distillery. So new, that they technically don’t have any Scotch yet. In order to sell whisky and call it Scotch, there are some rules you need to follow, and one of those rules is that your whisky must have been stored in oak casks for at least 3 years. But Ballindalloch hasn’t been distilling spirits that long. So they have a warehouse full of oak casks that are in turn full of whisky. They just don’t have any SCOTCH yet! The facility is beautiful, built inside an old stone farmhouse and barn, resurrected for the purpose of housing the new distillery, and restored to a beautiful state. The equipment is gleams and the whole facility is really lovely. But as the tour came to a finish and we listened to Brian Robinson finish his passionate tale of life at Scotland’s youngest distillery, we heard the fateful words, it would be a decade before we would be tasting any Ballindalloch single malt. He then solemnly led us into a lovely tasting room, sat us at a large oaken table, bereft of glasses, and let that news sink in.

Ballindalloch Distillery, Scotland.

Cruel man that he is, he told us about how he had this same conversation with Guy Macperson-Grant, Lord Ballindalloch, the man behind this mad scheme. Fortunately for all of us, he had the perfect solution sitting in his cellar back at the castle, the family’s own casks of Cragganmore. What? Apparently the family had a long-standing arrangement of buying a cask of single malt from the Cragganmore Distillery each year. This had been going on for decades, since a previous Lord Ballindalloch sold the Cragganmore Distillery the land it sits on. More importantly, long enough that our group was lucky enough to taste the 1986, 1985 and 1984 expressions. Those of you counting on fingers & toes are correct, we were lucky enough to taste 30, 31 and 32-year-old single-cask Cragganmores. The 1984 sherry cask was almost certainly the best scotch I’ve ever tasted. We were sad to leave, but it was time for lunch, and we were due at the castle. We enjoyed a nice lunch in the tearoom, and then strolled the lovely grounds and had a quick look into the castle itself to see the beautifully presented rooms.

Ballindalloch Castle, Scotland.

Next up was Aberlour, maker of one of my favorite single malts, their 16-year-old Sherry cask. You can only buy this expression at the distillery, so I was planning on stocking up. Aberlour offers a nice tour, but a fantastic tasting. You get to sample all of their single malts, including the 16-year-old single cask bottling and even the new spirit, the clear, freshly distilled malt, before it has spent time in bourbon casks or sherry butts. The tasting room is a cozy space with wood paneled walls and an enormous table lined with comfortable chairs. The place invites you to sit back and relax. They also provide your designated driver with a little set of plastic bottles to carry away their samples in. After the tasting, we headed up to Aberlour’s little shop, where we added a few more souvenirs to our growing collection.

Aberlour Distillery, Scotland.

That afternoon we explored the little town of Aberlour, wandering through the old war memorial and the church, window-shopping in the village, and strolling down to the banks of the Spey. It’s a very relaxing place. Close to the river, and just steps from the old railway station (closed to rail traffic since 1971), is The Mash Tun, one of the most celebrated pubs in Speyside. We enjoyed a nice simple meal in this charming old place and then slowly made our way back up the hill to our hotel.

The Mash Tun, Aberlour, Scotland.

The next day had us winding alongside the Spey up north to the sea. Benromach Distillery is a mile and a half from the North Sea, on the road between Elgin and Inverness. Benromach is one of the lucky old distilleries to have been resurrected after years of lying dormant. It is a fascinating place with a long and strange history. Today, they are one of the only Speyside distilleries to add a small amount of peat smoke to their malted barley, and that subtle note of smokiness gives Benromach a unique character. After our tour and tasting we once again visited the gift shop. We then piled back into the van to head to Elgin. Elgin Cathedral was begun in 1224 and was the seat of power for the Bishops of Moray until losing its roof in 1560, shortly after the Protestant Reformation. It has been a tourist attraction for 200 years, and today it is till clear why. The ruins are awe-inspiring. You can stand in the open-air nave and imagine what it must have been like when it was still in use; only now the floor is a perfect green lawn. The statues and grave markers make for dramatic photo opportunities, and the museum in the still intact cathedral towers houses an excellent exhibition of carved stones.

Elgin Cathedral, Scotland.

We then headed to Glenfiddich, not for a tour and tasting, but to have lunch at their excellent restaurant, The Malt Barn. Glenfiddich is a beautiful facility, as befits a distillery that sells so many bottles worldwide, it is a rich and lovely place. But we weren’t there for a tour or to taste their Scotch. Wherever you live, you can get it at home, probably in your local grocery store, and so our precious time was better spent elsewhere. However, their restaurant has a fine reputation, and the grounds are worth a wander. I had an excellent Cullen Skink, a stew made with smoked haddock and potato. Several people however, made the mistake of getting the quiche with salad. Now one thing worth knowing about Scottish cuisine, if it comes on the plate with a salad, its going to be cold. That’s right, cold quiche. Because salad. Don’t do it. But the soup and brown bread were awesome. As was the gift shop.

Barry hamming it up at Glenfiddich.

Next up was a bit of a personal quest for one of our group. We were off to find Rait Castle, the ancestral seat of our friend Emmett Raitt. The castle is now a ruin, roofless and totally grown over with vines; it’s lawn in need of a trim. But it’s a sweet little ruin, and any of us would be proud to call it ours. We had a grand time wandering around the stone walls, imagining it how it must have been and staring off towards the sea just a few miles distant. The sun took that opportunity to peak out between the clouds and we were gifted with a spectacular rainbow. Emmett was thrilled and we were all grateful for having been there with him. On our way back to Dowan’s, we had a brief stop to see the Sueno’s Stone, the tallest and most complex early medieval sculpture in Scotland. Standing 23 foot high, this Pictish cross is covered with the story of a battle on one side and what is thought to be a royal inauguration on the other. Coincidentally, the battle is though to represent the victory of Cinead mac Alpin, king of the Picts and according to myth, the first king of the scots. Perhaps he was a distant relative of Paul Macalpine, another member of our little group? We then stopped for dinner, at Barry’s suggestion, at a Toot’s Café Bar and Bistro. It is quiet little pub in Rothes, and the casual restaurant for the newly renovated Station Hotel. It is a comfortable place to grab a pint and relax, and they make a truly excellent burger. I’m told the fish and chips were quite good too.

Rait Castle, Nairn, Scotland.

Thursday morning had us headed to Strathisla Distillery in a heavy drizzle. I knew nothing of Strathisla going in, except that Mike at The Whisky Shop Dufftown recommended it, and that we couldn’t get their single malt it in the states. We could get their blended scotch, you may have even heard of it, Chivas Regal? Based on that connection, I wasn’t sure what to expect. The pictures looked nice, Mike said we should go, but Chivas is not something I have enjoyed much in the past. Well throw out what you know. The tour was excellent, thanks to our guide Anna Mitchell, Strathisla single malt is fantastic, and we got to taste some of the higher end Chivas, which is also pretty delicious. I am so glad we stopped in here.

Strathisla Distillery, Scotland.

Next up was a stop at Huntly Castle, the ancestral home of the Gordon clan, and our friend Norman Gordon. This is another awe-inspiring wreck, so typical of Scotland. A graceful old pile of stone, so full of history you can hear ghosts whisper and armor creak with each gust of wind and drop of water. Wandering around the bones of this old building in a light mist is perfection. Following it up with a stop at Dean’s Shortbread factory for a quick lunch is the icing on the cake. Dean’s has a cafeteria and tearoom, which truth be told, is not the least bit fancy, but totally acceptable. What it really has going for it, is the factory store. Grab a tin of shortbread to take home to the family, and grab a couple of bags of seconds, random broken pieces of shortbread they can’t package up, but instead sell for pennies on the pound. Perfect for nibbling on the bus, or back in the hotel bar with a nice glass of scotch or a cup of tea.

The Distillery Manager’s office, Glendronach Distillery, Scotland.

After lunch, we loaded back up and headed to Glendronach Distillery. Since this visit, Glendronach has become my favorite Scotch. We enjoyed a terrific tour -ask for Karen McWilliams if you want a laugh – and make sure you do the Premium Tasting Tour. We got to sample the Glendronach 18-year-old, the 21-year-old and an extra-special single-cask offering. We then raced to the gift shop for the chance to buy some of this amazing Scotch. They sell some fantastic older bottlings that are only available at the Distillery. They also give you the opportunity to fill your own bottle of 12-year-old from a single-cask sherry butt in the store. That was extremely cool. And delicious. I still have a little bit left. I’m nursing it until I get to go back. Glendronach is a hard act to follow, so our next stop was The Whisky Shop Dufftown. Mike, the owner has an amazing whisky shop, with the most incredible selection of single malts anywhere. We had been trying to restrain ourselves to buying things we could only buy at the distilleries. Mike even had a couple of those items on his shelves. He also had terrific recommendations for other whiskies he knew we would like based on what each of us had enjoyed so far. I shipped home quite a few bottles from there. Kid in a candy store doesn’t quite cover it.

Dowan’s Hotel, Aberlour, Scotland.

That night we had a spectacular four-course dinner at Spe, Dowan’s single-malt library and private dining room. The Murray family had taken such great care of us, and we were all sad to leave the next day. We headed back to Edinburgh with the sun shining, and made one last distillery stop in Pitlochry again, this time ad Edradour. Edradour is an odd place, and we probably should have skipped the tour here, as by then we knew the routine, and our German tour guide Hans was slightly off-putting in his borrowed kilt. The whisky however is quite nice, and Edradour has made a side business out of buying single casks from other distilleries and storing them until they are mature. You can taste a great number of these in their bar, and purchase some spectacular bottles in their shop. This alone made it worth a visit. We were back on the bus with the goal of getting back to Edinburgh with time left in the day for some sight seeing. Barry didn’t disappoint, stopping only long enough for a quick rest stop and to photograph another fantastic rainbow over the Firth of Forth and its awesome bridges.

The Royal Mile, Edinburgh, Scotland.

We were soon checking into our hotel and saying farewell to Barry. We would miss his easy companionship and his sense of humor. But we had traded the breathtaking Scottish countryside for the big city, and we would just need our feet for the next two days. The Hub is a super modern business hotel with ultra-efficient rooms. They have nothing you don’t need, not even an extra inch, but everything you do. They are perfectly designed, and I have to say, to a man, everyone loved the place. It was one block off the Royal Mile, and easy walking distance to wherever you wanted to go. That night I wanted to explore the Royal Mile, have a peak inside St. Giles and have dinner at Angels with Bagpipes. Edinburgh does not disappoint. St. Giles cathedral is stunning, the Royal Mile is vibrant and full of energy, and Angels with Bagpipes provided a terrific meal.

St. Giles Cathedral, Edinburgh, Scotland.

The next day we hit it hard, exploring Edinburgh Castle, The National Museum of Scotland, Holyrood Palace, Arthur’s Seat and The Calton Hill. Pausing just long enough to grab an excellent pulled pork sandwich from Oink on Victoria Street and a scoop of whisky ice cream from Over Langshaw’s tiny little stand in Grassmarket. We needed another day in Edinburgh. Maybe two. But we contented ourselves with a truly spectacular mean at The Kitchin, Tom Kitchin’s eponymous Michelin-Starred restaurant down in Leith, the old harbor of Edinburgh. It was one of the greatest meals of my life, ten inspired courses, all with perfect wine pairings, and all the produce, meat and seafood locally sourced. I will never forget the scallops, or the pork, or the rabbit. Even the breadsticks were outstanding. It was the perfect ending to the perfect trip. Everything about Scotland is good for my soul. I love the people, the countryside, the history, and the food, but especially, the single malt.

Slainte.

Aberlour Distillery, Scotland.